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Hi all. I apologize for making this so long but I wanted to give as much info as I can.

After installing the McWill LCD, the console worked fine for a few minutes then the red LED started blinking. After 10 minutes or so it turned off completely. After resetting it I would get the static image that I've uploaded in this post. When this static screen appears, both the LED and sound don't work either. So I continued to power it on and off repeatedly and I got it to work. But again, the red LED would blink and it would eventually power off. So I took it apart and checked all my soldering. Everything looked fine. I had no idea what could be the issue so I recapped the whole console (now the second time) and put it back together. It made no difference, I was still getting the static screen. So I took it apart again. I had the console disassembled/split into 2 parts and I tried to get it to work in this state. Powering it on and I was able to get clear video and sound. This didn't last very long because moving the top half of the console just a tad and it would power off. So I continued to try powering it on and off while the console was still split into 2 and moving the two halves around in case there was a bad connection. This would work sometimes, the vast majority of the time it would not. Most times I would get the static image. My best guess from that was the connector between the power PCB and the mainboard was possibly bad. I desoldered it and connected the two PCB's with some 26 awg wire. It made no difference. At this point I gave up.

Every couple of days or so I would try turning the game gear on and off while disassembled and once in a blue moon I'm able to get video and sound. When I do get it to work the red LED blinks and eventually it completely shuts off. 99 times out of 100 I get a static screen with no sound and power LED off. I was once able to have it running for a little over an hour and the LED was not blinking. The VGA out worked at this time also.

My game gear is a 837-7719-01. I haven't got a clue where to go from here. I don't believe the issue is with the McWill screen at all but rather the main board itself. My best guesses at the moment are:

-replacing the power PCB
-reflowing potential cold solder joints on SMD components
-find a dead SMD component (I don't know how to do this) and replace it

Also I noticed in the installation instructions it states:

"!!! Use hot glue for the internal screws of VGA connector. Otherwise the screws may cause short circuit !!!"

I'm very confused by that statement. How could the screws cause a short circuit? That could possibly be related to my problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

Re: pic 153059, did you try to put some electrical tape around the internal part of this connector and its nuts? ( all metal stuff on the connector covered with tape )

Best regards and good luck,
- dink

Install looks OK.

Note, the power LED is output from the Sega ASIC to display "battery OK" if your input voltage falls <~6.4v it will go off. Or if there is a short, of course.

I'd say your power board is going bad and/or you need to use alcohol and a brush to cleanup the old leaked electrolyte.

What is your VCC voltage when static is on?

dink wrote

Re: pic 153059, did you try to put some electrical tape around the internal part of this connector and its nuts? ( all metal stuff on the connector covered with tape )

Best regards and good luck,
- dink

I have not. It's possible it was shorting to the main PCB when I had it reassembled. But I still can't get it to work even with the game gear split in 2 to where it can't possibly short so I don't know if this is the issue.

segasonicfan wrote

Install looks OK.

Note, the power LED is output from the Sega ASIC to display "battery OK" if your input voltage falls <~6.4v it will go off. Or if there is a short, of course.

I'd say your power board is going bad and/or you need to use alcohol and a brush to cleanup the old leaked electrolyte.

What is your VCC voltage when static is on?

I checked VCC at several points:

front side of the PCB underneath the LCD: 4.85
McWill PCB: 4.57
LED: 4.71

Seems normal to me? Close enough to 5 volts. I could try to replace the power PCB but I'd hate to drop $22 for a replacement board to only have it not fix the issue.

Thank you both for your inputs.

dont replace the power PCB. if you are willing to be patient I can send one to you.

4.5v is really low for the GG. it starts cutting off usually around 4.65v.

-Segasonicfan

segasonicfan wrote

dont replace the power PCB. if you are willing to be patient I can send one to you.

4.5v is really low for the GG. it starts cutting off usually around 4.65v.

-Segasonicfan

I would be forever grateful if you could. Fingers crossed that replacing it fixes the issue. Could the low voltage also come from dead SMD components?

actually, I didnt see you mentioned 4.85v at the PCB. This is OK. I don't think the power supply is your issue.
Are you in the USA? Maybe you could send it here if you want me to take a look at it. It's hard to say what would cause that if your voltages are good.

segasonicfan wrote

actually, I didnt see you mentioned 4.85v at the PCB. This is OK. I don't think the power supply is your issue.
Are you in the USA? Maybe you could send it here if you want me to take a look at it. It's hard to say what would cause that if your voltages are good.

I am willing! Since I am completely lost as to what the problem is. I'll send you a message

unmaker sent me their GG to fix and I was able to repair it :)
Here are some pics of it working now.

-Segasonicfan

20171014_165140.jpg (97.16 KB)

20171014_214420.jpg (630.34 KB)

Author	Message
unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	Game Gear with McWill LCD static screen and no sound Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 1:59 am
unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	Hi all. I apologize for making this so long but I wanted to give as much info as I can. After installing the McWill LCD, the console worked fine for a few minutes then the red LED started blinking. After 10 minutes or so it turned off completely. After resetting it I would get the static image that I've uploaded in this post. When this static screen appears, both the LED and sound don't work either. So I continued to power it on and off repeatedly and I got it to work. But again, the red LED would blink and it would eventually power off. So I took it apart and checked all my soldering. Everything looked fine. I had no idea what could be the issue so I recapped the whole console (now the second time) and put it back together. It made no difference, I was still getting the static screen. So I took it apart again. I had the console disassembled/split into 2 parts and I tried to get it to work in this state. Powering it on and I was able to get clear video and sound. This didn't last very long because moving the top half of the console just a tad and it would power off. So I continued to try powering it on and off while the console was still split into 2 and moving the two halves around in case there was a bad connection. This would work sometimes, the vast majority of the time it would not. Most times I would get the static image. My best guess from that was the connector between the power PCB and the mainboard was possibly bad. I desoldered it and connected the two PCB's with some 26 awg wire. It made no difference. At this point I gave up. Every couple of days or so I would try turning the game gear on and off while disassembled and once in a blue moon I'm able to get video and sound. When I do get it to work the red LED blinks and eventually it completely shuts off. 99 times out of 100 I get a static screen with no sound and power LED off. I was once able to have it running for a little over an hour and the LED was not blinking. The VGA out worked at this time also. My game gear is a 837-7719-01. I haven't got a clue where to go from here. I don't believe the issue is with the McWill screen at all but rather the main board itself. My best guesses at the moment are: -replacing the power PCB -reflowing potential cold solder joints on SMD components -find a dead SMD component (I don't know how to do this) and replace it Also I noticed in the installation instructions it states: "!!! Use hot glue for the internal screws of VGA connector. Otherwise the screws may cause short circuit !!!" I'm very confused by that statement. How could the screws cause a short circuit? That could possibly be related to my problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks

dink Joined: 09 Dec 2013 Posts: 228 Location: detroit	Posted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 12:30 pm
dink Joined: 09 Dec 2013 Posts: 228 Location: detroit	Re: pic 153059, did you try to put some electrical tape around the internal part of this connector and its nuts? ( all metal stuff on the connector covered with tape ) Best regards and good luck, - dink

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Mon Sep 25, 2017 10:23 pm
	Install looks OK. Note, the power LED is output from the Sega ASIC to display "battery OK" if your input voltage falls <~6.4v it will go off. Or if there is a short, of course. I'd say your power board is going bad and/or you need to use alcohol and a brush to cleanup the old leaked electrolyte. What is your VCC voltage when static is on?

unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 2:42 am
unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	dink wrote Re: pic 153059, did you try to put some electrical tape around the internal part of this connector and its nuts? ( all metal stuff on the connector covered with tape ) Best regards and good luck, - dink I have not. It's possible it was shorting to the main PCB when I had it reassembled. But I still can't get it to work even with the game gear split in 2 to where it can't possibly short so I don't know if this is the issue. segasonicfan wrote Install looks OK. Note, the power LED is output from the Sega ASIC to display "battery OK" if your input voltage falls <~6.4v it will go off. Or if there is a short, of course. I'd say your power board is going bad and/or you need to use alcohol and a brush to cleanup the old leaked electrolyte. What is your VCC voltage when static is on? I checked VCC at several points: front side of the PCB underneath the LCD: 4.85 McWill PCB: 4.57 LED: 4.71 Seems normal to me? Close enough to 5 volts. I could try to replace the power PCB but I'd hate to drop $22 for a replacement board to only have it not fix the issue. Thank you both for your inputs.

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Tue Sep 26, 2017 8:09 am
	dont replace the power PCB. if you are willing to be patient I can send one to you. 4.5v is really low for the GG. it starts cutting off usually around 4.65v. -Segasonicfan

unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	Posted: Wed Sep 27, 2017 12:44 am
unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	segasonicfan wrote dont replace the power PCB. if you are willing to be patient I can send one to you. 4.5v is really low for the GG. it starts cutting off usually around 4.65v. -Segasonicfan I would be forever grateful if you could. Fingers crossed that replacing it fixes the issue. Could the low voltage also come from dead SMD components?

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Tue Oct 03, 2017 3:09 am
	actually, I didnt see you mentioned 4.85v at the PCB. This is OK. I don't think the power supply is your issue. Are you in the USA? Maybe you could send it here if you want me to take a look at it. It's hard to say what would cause that if your voltages are good.

unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	Posted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 8:00 am
unmaker Joined: 22 Sep 2017 Posts: 6	segasonicfan wrote actually, I didnt see you mentioned 4.85v at the PCB. This is OK. I don't think the power supply is your issue. Are you in the USA? Maybe you could send it here if you want me to take a look at it. It's hard to say what would cause that if your voltages are good. I am willing! Since I am completely lost as to what the problem is. I'll send you a message

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 2:38 am
	unmaker sent me their GG to fix and I was able to repair it :) Here are some pics of it working now. -Segasonicfan 20171014_165140.jpg (97.16 KB) 20171014_214420.jpg (630.34 KB)

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