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Post Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 4:16 pm
High definition doesn't help much when the image is 160x144 pixels.
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Post Posted: Mon Jan 21, 2008 7:12 pm
but at least the pixels don't appear as round and blurred boxes ;)

i think :P
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Post Posted: Wed Jan 30, 2008 12:13 pm
i finally had the time to finish this project.
the colours are splendid!
but i have one problem. on the tv screen are some scrolling lines, wich from time to time they disapear and then reapear. the lines are from top to bottom and are a lot of them and are transparent.
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Post Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:00 am
gorgyrip wrote
i finally had the time to finish this project.
the colours are splendid!
but i have one problem. on the tv screen are some scrolling lines, wich from time to time they disapear and then reapear. the lines are from top to bottom and are a lot of them and are transparent.


That's strange.... You have tied all unused inputs on the logic chips to ground or Vcc haven't you?
 
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Post Posted: Sun Feb 03, 2008 10:30 pm
viletim, thanx for the reply.
here are the unconnected pins:
IC1 (74hc04): 2,4,6,8,10
IC3 (74hc74): 5,6,8
and ic 4,5,6 all have q4, q5,q6, q7 unconnected.

wich pins should i connect to vcc or gnd?
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 2:10 am
There's nothing better than getting the chip's pdf / datasheet and connecting all the unused input pins to ground... or +5V, but to ground you minimize power consumption. ;)
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 7:35 am
it seems i have all input pins connected.
it's possible to have this problem because i didn't replaced all the leakin caps inside the game gear? because i didn't found 22, 33 and 68uf caps.
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Post Posted: Mon Feb 04, 2008 8:43 am
gorgyrip wrote
it seems i have all input pins connected.
it's possible to have this problem because i didn't replaced all the leakin caps inside the game gear? because i didn't found 22, 33 and 68uf caps.


That would be a good start. You don't need exact values for replacement, +/- 50% should be ok.
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Post Posted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 6:32 pm
i've just replaced all the caps, but the problem with the lines still remains.
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Post Posted: Fri Feb 08, 2008 3:58 am
gorgyrip wrote
i've just replaced all the caps, but the problem with the lines still remains.


Lots of translucent horizontal lines (single lines or thick bands?) moving from the top to the bottom of the screen (how fast?)...

I'm not really sure. You didn't forget to connect the ground wire did you? You might also want to try and lower the value of R20 (560R) and see if that helps (you can solder another 560R resistor across it for example).
 
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Post Posted: Sat Feb 09, 2008 2:52 pm
viletim,
i tried to low R20, and i even removed it, but no improvement.
the lines are thin, and sometimes they move from top to bottom, and other times they move from bottom to top. the speed isn't constant. sometimes fast, sometimes slow. i removed the tvout from this gamegear and connected to another. the same problem. that means i did something wrong with the tv-out part.
i didn't fond 74hcxxx, so for the 374 ic's i used hct, the others ic's are HC. the transistors ar bc547b and bc557b. instead of the 11k resistors i used 10+1k in serial, and for the 75ohm i used 2x150ohm in parallel.
ic's 4,5,6 are placed one on top of eachother and i connected 100n capacitor to them, ic's 2 and 3 are also connected on top of eachother with a 100n cap, and to ic 1 i connected an 100uf cap. from this last capacitorenters the VCC from game gear. i took the power from C6 inside the gear. i think that's the problem. it's only 4,8v. and for the power supply for the gear i'm using 12v, 1a with an 7809.
sorry for my bad english, i hope you undestood what i'm trying to say. i hope you can help me. thanx

i,ve tested it with batteries and the same problem.
i tryed to power the tv out with an external power supply (5v) and the picture was scrambled, i mean i had a lot of artifacts and i didn't have red, but i didn't see any lines.
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 1:02 pm
Has anybody used this mod to put a new LCD into the game gear? Or does anybody know of a suitable LCD that would work with it??
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 31, 2008 1:18 pm
It outputs RGB video with huge borders so you'd need something that can:

(1) take RGB video at nearly-NTSC specs (should be possible)
(2) do a decent job of zooming in, when in GG mode, to the middle of the picture (unlikely, so you'll have to live with borders)
(3) fit in the GG case (now it's seriously limiting)
gamepic4.jpg (69.13 KB)
Example pic showing GG mode borders
gamepic4.jpg

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Post Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 11:18 am
Hey there, I have 2 spare Game gears that have dead screens, as in the IC's are kaput. One has a thick black line down the middle and another has another similar problem. I have done the cap trick so it's not that.

Anyway what I was after is if I do this mod here to connect to my TV, can I remove the screen in the game gear including the backlight and its associated bits and pieces? Or does the Game Gear rely on the original screen for some feedback signal? My aim is to have one of these units set up as a permament console that is connected to the TV. I may even have a control pad socket fitted as well.

Also is it correct in saying to get +5v and ground to go off one of the caps eg C6 or C48 (in a 2 ASIC model which these are)?

Thanks
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 2:09 am
I also got two of them with damaged LCDs. I've removed both of them and they work normally (as I can ear).
Feeding one of them (I don't know wich, I've just tried with one) with +5V DC does not make it boot (I did not not remove the transformer) but I've not yet detected the required additional voltages (+12V, +34V, etc) because I didn't have the time...
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:20 am
I had a bit of fun with one of my damaged ones, one with a thick black line down the middle and I traced from the fluoro back. I removed the transformer and other ancillary products, the light is now no longer functioning BUT the Game Gear functions as normal. I turned it on and lifted the screen up and shoved a small LED torch (like a mini-maglite on a keyring) shining it against the reflector. The Game Gear still functions as it should, it was difficult to see as the LED torch is not as bright as the fluoro. I also now have a nice clean easily accessible +5v point. Now it is just a matter of getting the parts together and I think I will try and pinch a CXA1145 Video encoder from an asthetically busted SMS, when/if I get one. I think (and it hurts) if I get one out of there it should have all the extra components that will be needed to make the encoder work. Might need a bit more homework on that one.
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 3:06 am
has anybody gotten the 1 chip mod to work on an american tv...?

i'm trying to make the ultimate gamegear. i'm completely recasing it and using a psone 5" screen. it can do rgb. but, for the life of me, i CANNOT get this to work with it. i've made the circuit 2x now. i was careful the first time, even more careful the 2nd time. i know that everything is correct. but all i get is a black and white image. and it is only viewable at about a 45 degree angle.

somebody please help!
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:13 am
If it's black and white then it's not displaying the RGB. Does the mod output composite sync? Maybe you need to force the screen into RGB mode.
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:08 pm
the screen is in rgb mode. it just takes a +5v on a certain pin. the screen won't even power on if rgb is hooked up without the +5v, so i know it's in rgb mode. if i only connect up the red line, everything is in red; only the blue line, all in blue, etc. if i connect red and blue, all is in purple, etc. but once i connect them all up, it is b&w. and all of these are not viewable when looking directly at the screen. only at odd angles.

this is how i have the screen hooked up. the blue square is to power the screen, the red squares are all for rgb.

i do not have the rgb select or cvbs select from the 1 chip diagram even on the circuit. in the instructions, it says that cvbs select is optional. and all the rgb select is is to get the screen into rgb mode. that's what the +5v is for that i already have hooked up.

this is frustrating. i was going to enter this into a contest. but it ends on the 31st. and i've been trying to get this circuit to work since the 5th. here is what the display looks like

any other ideas what it could be? does it just need a different resistor value on the csync line or something...? i don't know enough about electronics to trouble shoot this.

and for easy reference, this is the 1 chip diagram. ignore the black circle...
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:25 pm
Have you checked whether your R, G, B signals are all different or identical? If you hook up only the red, of course it'll look red, but if your RGB decoder is somehow outputting identical signals on the R, G, B pins, then it'll be greyscale, of course.

Have you tested it, y'know with something like Sonic the Hedgehog, where if you look at only the Blue signal, the sky will be bright blue, and Sonic will be a shade of blue too; and then look at only the Red signal, where the sky & Sonic will both appear as black?
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Post Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 1:28 pm
ccovell wrote
Have you checked whether your R, G, B signals are all different or identical? If you hook up only the red, of course it'll look red, but if your RGB decoder is somehow outputting identical signals on the R, G, B pins, then it'll be greyscale, of course.

Have you tested it, y'know with something like Sonic the Hedgehog, where if you look at only the Blue signal, the sky will be bright blue, and Sonic will be a shade of blue too; and then look at only the Red signal, where the sky & Sonic will both appear as black?


why, no, i have not done that. i hadn't really thought of that. like i said, i'm not really good at electronics. i can follow diagrams and instructions really easily, just not good at figuring problems out...

so, if that is my problem, any idea how to fix that...?
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Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 3:03 am
lovablechevy,

You haven't mistakenly connected pin 9 of IC2 to pin 9 of IC3 or pin 12 of IC2 to pin 12 of IC3 have you?
 
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Post Posted: Fri Aug 29, 2008 2:47 pm
viletim! wrote
lovablechevy,

You haven't mistakenly connected pin 9 of IC2 to pin 9 of IC3 or pin 12 of IC2 to pin 12 of IC3 have you?


i don't have it in front of me right now, but i'll make sure of that when i can look at it. i am fairly certain i don't tho. i followed the diagram to the tee. but i'll make sure there isn't any stray solder.
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Post Posted: Wed Oct 08, 2008 9:45 pm
gorgyrip wrote
i finally had the time to finish this project.
the colours are splendid!
but i have one problem. on the tv screen are some scrolling lines, wich from time to time they disapear and then reapear. the lines are from top to bottom and are a lot of them and are transparent.


is it possible to have this problem because i used 5% resistors?
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 12:17 am
gorgyrip wrote
gorgyrip wrote
i finally had the time to finish this project.
the colours are splendid!
but i have one problem. on the tv screen are some scrolling lines, wich from time to time they disapear and then reapear. the lines are from top to bottom and are a lot of them and are transparent.


is it possible to have this problem because i used 5% resistors?


No, that won't hurt anything...

It's a bit strange that you have more problems when powering the circuit with an external 5v supply. One thing you might want to try is to take D0, D1, D2, D3 from the other side of the resistors (ie. directly from the IC output).
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Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 8:39 am
viletim, i tried what you said a long time ago, but the result was the same.
i'm thinking maybe one of this things is the problem:
1. i used floppy disk wires, for the hlatch i used a wire from an ide 80 cable, the cable from the gear tot tv is from a psx controller (works great with my sms II rgb); i connected the clock to FB1 (not to pin 55).
2. the entire thing is made in air (without a pcb) and ic4, ic 5, and ic6 are placed on top of eachother. and from each IC are connected the resistors and the transitors resulting in 3 layers (for RGB) and maybe there's some kind of interference.(see the picture)
gg1.jpg (159.27 KB)
gg1.jpg

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Post Posted: Thu Oct 09, 2008 11:35 pm
Wow... If i wouldn't know better i'd say that looks horrifying. Poor little game gear :p
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 3:08 am
Yes, wow...it looks like a game gear powered death ray :)

I think it might benifit from a large-ish electrolytic capacitor (220µ or 470µ) soldered between +5v and ground. It should be located as close to the output driver (transistors) circuit as possible.
 
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 10, 2008 10:00 am
viletim! wrote
Yes, wow...it looks like a game gear powered death ray :)

I think it might benifit from a large-ish electrolytic capacitor (220µ or 470µ) soldered between +5v and ground. It should be located as close to the output driver (transistors) circuit as possible.


I just tryied that, but no luck.
Now i removed the transistors and i connected each of the RGB lines to the 4 resistors connected to the each 74 374. The colors are darker, but the lines are still present. i think i will try to replace those 3 74374 with 74 574.
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Post Posted: Sat Oct 11, 2008 1:31 am
gorgyrip wrote

I just tryied that, but no luck.
Now i removed the transistors and i connected each of the RGB lines to the 4 resistors connected to the each 74 374. The colors are darker, but the lines are still present. i think i will try to replace those 3 74374 with 74 574.


That pretty much rules out noise in the power rail as the culprit... There's no difference between 74'374 and 74'574 other than the pinout so that's not likely to help.

I think the problem lies within the pixel clocking part (the two '74 and '04). Get the datasheets for those two and check the pinout. Make sure that all input pins are connected somewhere. Either to another output or to Vcc/GND. An input left floating can cause all sorts of problems.
 
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2008 8:50 am
viletim! wrote
gorgyrip wrote

I just tryied that, but no luck.
Now i removed the transistors and i connected each of the RGB lines to the 4 resistors connected to the each 74 374. The colors are darker, but the lines are still present. i think i will try to replace those 3 74374 with 74 574.


That pretty much rules out noise in the power rail as the culprit... There's no difference between 74'374 and 74'574 other than the pinout so that's not likely to help.

I think the problem lies within the pixel clocking part (the two '74 and '04). Get the datasheets for those two and check the pinout. Make sure that all input pins are connected somewhere. Either to another output or to Vcc/GND. An input left floating can cause all sorts of problems.


checked and double checked. all the imput pins are connected.
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Post Posted: Sat Nov 08, 2008 7:36 pm
now i have another problem. the game gear's screen is black and i can't controll the brightness. could this be a problem of D0,D1,D2,D3?
btw, viletim, what software din you used to make this:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/board.png
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Post Posted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 8:59 pm
Hi

After all the work that has one into making the ultimate GGTV.

I have just looked through all the posts and found two websites with instructions on how to make one:

http://disgruntleddesigner.com/chrisc/segahacking/ggrgb.html

http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/ggrgb.html

The second link is newer.

What is the latest version of this guide so that I can have a go at making my own?

Thanks

Rob
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Post Posted: Fri Jun 12, 2009 8:25 am
robchat,
he latter has a more compattible pixel clocker and more accurate video amplifier. They should both work on the older 2 ASIC model Game Gear.

gorgyrip,
The diggram was made with Deluxe Paint IIe for MS-DOS.
 
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Post Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2009 9:05 pm
The 2nd link's method works fine on 2 and 1 ASIC models. I've done 3x mods for 2 ASIC system and 1x 1 ASIC system, no issues so far. I'm using slightly different pixel clocker which does not need NOT gate, and simpler and not so "polite" video amps...

I'll draw a schematic soon :)
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ROST's guide
Post Posted: Sat Mar 27, 2010 3:55 pm
Stumbled on a Japanese mod guide
http://www.geocities.jp/rajiaki_uchiaki/ROST/rost_gg_rgb.html
Thought I would post it, haven't heard about it before.
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Post Posted: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:55 am
thanks for the link. Will check it out for my site

http://gamegear.isgreat.org/
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Now... outside the Europe...
Post Posted: Wed Apr 14, 2010 12:43 am
Ok that you can play the Game Gear with colors, but here in Brazil, we don't have the SCART and RGB input on TVs, we only have Composite, sometimes S-Video, rare component 480i (YPbRb) and more rare HDMI, so, the more disseminated input mode is the composite.

How can I convert these RGB signals generated by this schematic to a S-Video or Composite???

I made so far the schematic from SegaSonicFan and try to use a CXA1145 encoder chip, but I stucked here... I have the compsite signal, but with no colors, only black and white...

Please help me, because my GGTV project is so nice that I made a console with him and is only missing this important thing to build a whole new console.

Thanks in advance
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Re: Now... outside the Europe...
Post Posted: Fri Apr 16, 2010 12:57 am
DMN_Sonic wrote
Ok that you can play the Game Gear with colors, but here in Brazil, we don't have the SCART and RGB input on TVs, we only have Composite, sometimes S-Video, rare component 480i (YPbRb) and more rare HDMI, so, the more disseminated input mode is the composite.

How can I convert these RGB signals generated by this schematic to a S-Video or Composite???

I made so far the schematic from SegaSonicFan and try to use a CXA1145 encoder chip, but I stucked here... I have the compsite signal, but with no colors, only black and white...

Please help me, because my GGTV project is so nice that I made a console with him and is only missing this important thing to build a whole new console.

Thanks in advance



Take a look at this:
http://www.smspower.org/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11931

http://users.tpg.com.au/vile88/ggtv/ggtv.htm

This board makes use of the BH7236AF video encoder IC. I have some available for the cost of AU$70 (with shipping) each.
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Post Posted: Fri Oct 22, 2010 3:16 am
DMN_Sonic: it sounds like you hooked everything up fine with the CXA1145 but forgot the crystal oscillator. You need to input a TTL signal or your image will only be B&W. see my website for a simple diagram with the AD725 chip:
http://vgmods.webs.com/arcadeworks.htm
the 4-pin can-shaped ones are the easiest to work with. also check to make sure whether you are using the right crystal frequency for PAL/NTSC.



now I have finally started to take on viletim's GG 1ASIC TV out circuit from over here:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/ggrgb.html

but all I'm getting is a blank screen, as if my RGB monitor was getting no signal at all. I've triple checked all the wiring and tested it on 2 different RGB monitors with the same result. So I attached pics here to see if someone can help me to figure this one out.

I am using NTE159 as a replacement for BC558 and 2N3904 instead of BC548. I am also using 74HCT chips though I don't think that is supposed to make any difference than 74HC.

any ideas what could be wrong?

-Segasonicfan
ggtv3.JPG (233.62 KB)
ggtv3.JPG
ggtv2.JPG (97.36 KB)
ggtv2.JPG
ggtv1.JPG (113.66 KB)
ggtv1.JPG

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Post Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 3:18 pm
segasonicfan wrote

now I have finally started to take on viletim's GG 1ASIC TV out circuit from over here:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/ggrgb.html

but all I'm getting is a blank screen, as if my RGB monitor was getting no signal at all. I've triple checked all the wiring and tested it on 2 different RGB monitors with the same result. So I attached pics here to see if someone can help me to figure this one out.



segasonicfan wrote
I am using NTE159 as a replacement for BC558 and 2N3904 instead of BC548. I am also using 74HCT chips though I don't think that is supposed to make any difference than 74HC.


Your power and ground, especially ground wires are a bit thin looking. Also try taking power from the capacitor to the left under the cart slot. It's a bit closer to the power source.

While it it shouldn't result in no picture at all, the NTE159 isn't really well suited to this application -- the beta (current gain) is a bit low. Try to use a 2N3906 as a BC558 replacement, should be easy for you to find as it's an American part. Note the different pin configuration.

Also it looks like you're missing a few parts from the video amplifier... unless they're hidden out of sight somewhere?
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Post Posted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 6:28 pm
Thanks for the reply viletim-

I just got it fixed yesterday! The only thing that seemed consistent with a blank image when power was present was a lack of all clock signal...and sure enough my 4th time rechecking wiring I found a loose one connecting to a 74HC74..

It looks like these transistor work, though maybe in the future I will upgrade to at least a 3906 since I have a bunch of them (very easy to get here). I used NTE159 because, according to their cross reference page it is a perfect match for BC558:
http://nte01.nteinc.com/nte/NTExRefSemiProd.nsf/69d5aa3584d015ce85256e780056e56f...

all the parts are there, though some are very well hidden. beneath the 574s are 2 transistors and 2 resistors.

either way, it looks GREAT and I am just completely blown away by how *perfect* the video output is. viletim's design is a real gem.


One thing that scared the crap out of me making this board though was an almost immediate power off when I first fired it up. Apparently if the new DAC conversion board is not getting power, but connected to pixel clock, it will shut off your game gear immediately. Kind of scary but it didn't seem to cause any damage.

Slight additions made:
*a diode between GG VCC and board VCC (to smooth voltage more and keep from damaging GG in case of power short)
*output pots (500ohms) to adjust RGB levels. Omitted the 75ohm and 1k resistors on output.
*white power LED

I designed this one with completely socketed ICs too, since this was my first time building this fairly difficult circuit. and desoldering 20-pin DIPs is no fun.
I also fit the RGB plug inside the battery compartment, so this GG has no drilling whatsoever :)

thanks again viletim for this amazing design. a dream come true to have this mod for any GG.

**note: my camera sucks at taking pictures of screens and these picture do no justice whatsoever to the quality this mod puts out.
pic1.JPG (282.76 KB)
pic1.JPG
pic2.JPG (78.55 KB)
pic2.JPG
pic3.JPG (88.2 KB)
pic3.JPG
pic4.JPG (39.39 KB)
pic4.JPG
the board.JPG (53.04 KB)
the board.JPG

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Post Posted: Sun Dec 05, 2010 4:31 pm
Hello,

I need some help from the experts here...

I too built the RGB circuit over at http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/ggrgb.html, however I'm having issues. I built the circuit just like the schematic. (I see segasonicfan re-arranged the componets a little different.)

I'm using a PS1 lcd screen to display the output. I get no picture when everything is hooked up to a PS1 screen. When I disconnect +5v and grounds I do get a picture but the display is not correct. I also tried the 1 ASIC GG model with same result. I triple checked my connections and everything looks correct. I did not connect the 7-12v unreg to CVBS select because I don't think it's needed with a PS1 screen.

I was thing about building another circuit but before I do that I was wondering if anybody can give me some advice on what may be wrong. Thanks!

Here are some pictures.








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Post Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2010 8:50 pm
well, for starters at least you are missing some ICs there. If you take a look at my board there are 6 ICs. See here:
http://members.optusnet.com.au/eviltim/ggrgb/partlist.txt

There needs to be 3 74374 (or 574), one for each video line (R, G, B). Viletim stacked them in his design to save board space.

Also, if you are using a 2ASIC GG and dont care about the mod working on a 1ASIC you might consider building the easier circuit for this over here:
http://www.freewebs.com/vgmods/gamegearmodifications.htm

That was the first mod by Xavier, it looks just as perfect and it is nowhere near as difficult as the 1ASIC. much fewer parts.

you definitely dont need 7-12v for CVBS. thats specifically for SCART connection.

I would check your RGB output connection too... I never got an image without power being applied. This leads me to think that maybe your output isnt connected right.

Also keep in mind there is a small correction needed to Viletims schematic (attached)

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Post Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2010 4:17 pm
Thanks for the info! I do have the 6 ICs, it's hard to tell in the picture but they are stacked like Viletim's board.

I have parts for another circuit so I'm going to breadboard it this weekend. I'll let you know what happens.

Also is there a schematic for the RGB->composite circuit somewhere?
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Post Posted: Wed Dec 08, 2010 8:57 am
wiz4,

Keep the signal wires between the Game Gear and your board as short as possible. They are far too long at the moment.

Check the clocking part of the circuit again.
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Post Posted: Tue Dec 28, 2010 4:43 pm
OK, finally found the time to breadboard the circuit used for the 2 ASIC GG.

I got it working! I didn't use 74HCT574 but 74HC374. The pinouts were different but seemed to work.

I seem to have some interference going on but I still need to replace all the caps. Also the wires will not be as long.





Thanks for everybody's advice!
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Post Posted: Tue Jan 11, 2011 2:38 am
Would SN74ALS174's ,which contain 6 D flip flops be workable ,or SN74ALS175 ?
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Jimmimak
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Post Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 7:34 pm
Hi everyone! I have read this thread from start to finish, and I am grateful for you guys documenting the hack so well. I definitely want to do this mod myself. I was wondering whether it would be possible to output VGA instead of SCART. I understand this also requires a vertical synch signal in addition to horizontal synch. I imagine this is not hard to add to the current mod.

I think it would just require some maths to work out the frequency required, and then use the same technique as before - make a clock counter/divider to divide the 32MHz to the frequency you need to tell the screen where the top and bottom of the image are. I found an interesting page on VGA processing but I'm a new member so I can't post it right now. :(

We could also take it a step further and upscale the image. This may turn out to be a requirement, as VGA is usually 640x480 minimum. This can be done in a number of ways, one is to introduce scan lines, so that the image is interlaced, another more complex method is pixel doubling. There are articles online that talk about the theory. Again, I can't cite anything as I'm new.

Any ideas?
 
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Post Posted: Fri Jan 28, 2011 10:18 pm
As far as I can remember, monitors won't sync to the 15kHz horizontal scan rate. That was true in the days of CRTs, but I don't know what a modern LCD will do.
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