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I've recently recapped two Game Gears (my first time trying this), and I've been very surprised at the results! The sound is clear and loud, the screen is colourful and clear, and the battery compartment still works.

However, a day later and one of my GGs has started showing two solid very dark black lines horizontally across the screen when switched on. The rest of the display is perfect and the games run fine.

I'm going to reflow the new mainboard capacitors again, but I don't think that this is the issue.

I've read in various forums that I should 'heat the tape' to possibly fix this kind of LCD fault, but I can never find a good explanation of what tape I should be heating, how to get to it, what I should be heating it with, etc.!

Can somebody please point me to a guide for troubleshooting and fixing these horizontal lines, specifically with a guide on how to do this tape heating?

The LCD is attached to the board by a flexible flat ribbon cable, which I believe has some chips inside. The idea is that the bad connection is in there.

This can be a very tricky repair. First, see if pressing down on the ribbon cable / main PCB connection fixes the issue while turned on. Wear gloves for safety and go slow. Find the bad spot and the grab a heat reflow station (*not* a blowdryer)

Remove the screws holding in the LCD with white plastic. The screen scratches VERY easily so have a soft cloth to rest it on. Make sure to start at low heat and work your way along the inside edge where the ribbon connector is. I prefer to use a soldering iron, but to each their own.

((in Star Fox voice)): "Good Luck!"

-SSF

I appreciate this a lot thanks :)

I dismantled the GG and detached the screen/diffuser section. I applied a little pressure on each pin, and all the chips that I could identify but apart from the normal LCD pressure ripples there wasn't any distortion on the screen at all. I decided against doing any soldering.

I moved the brightness dial all the way to fully dark, and somehow this activated the lower black line, as if it wasn't getting the right voltage to wake up. I tried going back and forth between the extremes to get the other line to go but nothing changed.

I reassembled the GG and decided to leave it running to see if that would cause the other line to reactivate, and it did after about five minutes!

https://imgur.com/a/F1pbdeT

The screen is looking a little faded compared to NY other GG. I think maybe my AC adapter just isnt supplying enough current. The GG is 9V 3W, and the (configurable voltage) adapter is 9V 3.6VA but it also says it has a current rating of 300mA which is pushing it. (I suppose 3.6VA would be its 12V setting at 300mA)

Glad you're making a little bit of progress. I doubt current is the issue, but you could always try a 9 volt power supply that's an aftermarket.

As with all game gears, I'm prone to suspect the leaking electrolyte from the capacitors you replaced. The board must be thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and sometimes vinegar first. Otherwise you're going to have all kinds of issues. If you search for me on YouTube and search Game Gear capacitor replacement, there is a one-hour video explaining this that I made.

I couldn't see any visible corrosion (although the aging caps were making the system not boot and the screen unviewable, I probably caused more issues on the board with my desoldering than from the caps leaking :D ) but my usual go-to for cleaning contacts, boards, cap goop and flux is lighter fluid and a brush/swab. I can't get IP alcohol very easily but next time I have the system open I'll give it a go :) Cheers.

the corrosion isnt often visible. Heres the correct way to do things:

easy way to get the alcohol cleaner:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-GALLON-4-quarts-Isopropyl-Alcohol-IMAX-PURE-100-HIG...

-SSF

Possibly not visible? That is something I hadn't anticipated, thanks for that info

Author	Message
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Game Gear solid black 1px lines horizontally across screen - 'heat the tape'? Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 1:47 am
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	I've recently recapped two Game Gears (my first time trying this), and I've been very surprised at the results! The sound is clear and loud, the screen is colourful and clear, and the battery compartment still works. However, a day later and one of my GGs has started showing two solid very dark black lines horizontally across the screen when switched on. The rest of the display is perfect and the games run fine. I'm going to reflow the new mainboard capacitors again, but I don't think that this is the issue. I've read in various forums that I should 'heat the tape' to possibly fix this kind of LCD fault, but I can never find a good explanation of what tape I should be heating, how to get to it, what I should be heating it with, etc.! Can somebody please point me to a guide for troubleshooting and fixing these horizontal lines, specifically with a guide on how to do this tape heating?

Maxim Site Admin Joined: 19 Oct 1999 Posts: 14736 Location: London	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 6:32 am
	The LCD is attached to the board by a flexible flat ribbon cable, which I believe has some chips inside. The idea is that the bad connection is in there.

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:43 am
	This can be a very tricky repair. First, see if pressing down on the ribbon cable / main PCB connection fixes the issue while turned on. Wear gloves for safety and go slow. Find the bad spot and the grab a heat reflow station (not a blowdryer) Remove the screws holding in the LCD with white plastic. The screen scratches VERY easily so have a soft cloth to rest it on. Make sure to start at low heat and work your way along the inside edge where the ribbon connector is. I prefer to use a soldering iron, but to each their own. ((in Star Fox voice)): "Good Luck!" -SSF

MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 5:33 pm
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	I appreciate this a lot thanks :)

MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 10:11 pm
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	I dismantled the GG and detached the screen/diffuser section. I applied a little pressure on each pin, and all the chips that I could identify but apart from the normal LCD pressure ripples there wasn't any distortion on the screen at all. I decided against doing any soldering. I moved the brightness dial all the way to fully dark, and somehow this activated the lower black line, as if it wasn't getting the right voltage to wake up. I tried going back and forth between the extremes to get the other line to go but nothing changed. I reassembled the GG and decided to leave it running to see if that would cause the other line to reactivate, and it did after about five minutes! https://imgur.com/a/F1pbdeT The screen is looking a little faded compared to NY other GG. I think maybe my AC adapter just isnt supplying enough current. The GG is 9V 3W, and the (configurable voltage) adapter is 9V 3.6VA but it also says it has a current rating of 300mA which is pushing it. (I suppose 3.6VA would be its 12V setting at 300mA)

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:04 pm
	Glad you're making a little bit of progress. I doubt current is the issue, but you could always try a 9 volt power supply that's an aftermarket. As with all game gears, I'm prone to suspect the leaking electrolyte from the capacitors you replaced. The board must be thoroughly cleaned with alcohol and sometimes vinegar first. Otherwise you're going to have all kinds of issues. If you search for me on YouTube and search Game Gear capacitor replacement, there is a one-hour video explaining this that I made.

MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Posted: Mon Feb 25, 2019 11:52 pm
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	I couldn't see any visible corrosion (although the aging caps were making the system not boot and the screen unviewable, I probably caused more issues on the board with my desoldering than from the caps leaking :D ) but my usual go-to for cleaning contacts, boards, cap goop and flux is lighter fluid and a brush/swab. I can't get IP alcohol very easily but next time I have the system open I'll give it a go :) Cheers.

segasonicfan Joined: 05 Jan 2006 Posts: 374 Location: USA	Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 1:45 am
	the corrosion isnt often visible. Heres the correct way to do things: easy way to get the alcohol cleaner: https://www.ebay.com/itm/ONE-GALLON-4-quarts-Isopropyl-Alcohol-IMAX-PURE-100-HIG... -SSF

MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Posted: Tue Feb 26, 2019 5:37 pm
MrD Joined: 25 May 2012 Posts: 32	Possibly not visible? That is something I hadn't anticipated, thanks for that info

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