The symptom is a very dim sound quality.
These instructions are given freely, and may be distributed widely, incorporated in other documents etc - GAMING FOR EVER!!!
HOWEVER, the author does not take any responsibility for any damage caused to the unit and or the person and or anything while following or relying on these instructions.
CAPACITOR 47µF:
| Length/Height | 5.8mm |
| Width | 0.65mm |
| Capacitance | 47µF |
| Power factor | 0.3 |
| Depth | 5mm |
| Voltage rating | DC 6.3V |
| Tolerance | ±20% |
| Temperature operating max | 105°C |
These can be bought at Farnell (order code 555940), Maplin or anywhere, and only cost around 31 pence (US50¢, AU88¢, NZ96¢...).
At the location of the white markers (more or less) are the six screws that need to be removed.
At the location of the yellow marker is the security screw - this needs to be removed with sharp nose pliers and PATIENCE!! Did I mention A LOT OF PATIENCE ??
Alternative method, thanks to Steve Snake: take a Bic type ballpoint pen (one with hard, clear plastic), remove the insides and end cap, and heat the big end gently (eg. with a cigarette lighter). When it is soft, push it onto the security screw and wait for it to harden. It should now ne a re-usable security screwdriver.
Once the security screw is out, I recommend sawing a groove into it (see picture below). It makes putting it back a lot easier (a normal flat screwdriver can be used).
On opening the Game Gear, you should find three connectors holding the two halves together - unplug them. Don't worry, they are all different sizes so it is easy to remember where to plug them in!!
First remove the 4 screw holding down the metal plate (YELLOW).
After the metal plate is off, proceed to remove the two screws holding the sound board in place (ORANGE) (the sound board is the one with the earphone socket on it).
Right, the sound board is now out !!
The offending capacitor is highlighted above (C7 on the motherboard) - notice the way the half black circle on the top of the capacitor is facing - your new one must face in the same direction!!!!
I removed it by merely pulling it from the board with my long nose pliers - simple. It has always come off cleanly.
Once it is off, put a small amount of solder on the points (see below). I am assuming you know how to solder - if not, download a tutorial from the web before starting.
Right - the next step is to solder the new capacitor in place. Note the polarity - capacitors are fussy in that they must be connected correctly - use the black marking as a guide.
The picture below shows the "tool" I use to hold the board and everything in place. It's like an extra set of hands :)
Here we go - the board with the new capacitor fitted:
Now simply put it all back together: